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For more than two centuries, numerous references in French and other literature
have borne witness to the scope and depth of Breguet's international influence.
Breguet has become such an intrinsic part of European culture that his name
inevitably springs to mind when one is seeking to depict the aristocracy, the bourgeoisie,
or simply a luxurious, refined environment characterized by high standards. What
greater proof of his reputation could one imagine, than an allusion to Breguet
in the Comedie Humaine by Balzac, or in works by Alexandre Dumas, Stendhal, Jules
Verne, or even the great Pushkin.
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Other less universally known authors such as Merimee, Siraudin or the Russians Karamzin
and Kuprin also celebrate the father of modern watchmaking, while numerous works
in popular literature intended for the education of youth give Breguet as
an example, often colorful and embroidered biographies.
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Breguet was founded in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, following his
marriage to the daughter of a prosperous French bourgeois; her dowry provided the
"financing" which allowed him to open his own workshop. The connections Breguet
had made with scholarly people during his apprenticeship as a watchmaker and as
a student of mathematics soon paid off with spectacular results. Following his introduction
to the court, whereupon Queen Marie-Antoinette is said to have grown fascinated
by Breguet's unique self-winding watch, Louis XVI bought several watches.
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Breguet found access to the powerful and wealthy aristocracy, and proved
himself to be a technical genius, which helped further development his workshop.
In short order, Breguet perfected the self-winding movement invented by Perrelet;
invented shock resistance for balance bearings (prior to this, most pocket watches
were badly damaged if they fell to the ground); and developed la repetition, a repeating
pocket watch that chimed on demand (which was necessary to tell time in the dark).
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Perhaps the invention Breguet is most famous for is the tourbillon, which
can be only be built by the most skilled watchmakers even with today's advanced
technology. Breguet began with the theory that the gravity of a pocket watch
(that was almost always carried vertically) led to deviations in timekeeping. He
wanted to rule out all differences of position with the tourbillon. He developed
a small "clock within a clock", meaning that the balance and escapement turned on
a common axle within the movement, for example, once a minute. This eliminated most
deviations caused by differences in position and allowed many watches to attain
chronometer-like accuracy.
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These inventions ensured the success of Breguet´s firm under the rule of
two Bourbon kings, three governments of the First Republic and the reign of Napoleon.
In fact, Napoleon was one of Breguet's most loyal customers. An amusing story
is told in which Napoleon, while in the heat of battle, wanted to see the time on
his pocket watch right away, without sacrificing the benefits of the cover. So,
right then and there, Napoleon unceremoniously cut a small viewing hole in the front
cover, which gave him an unobstructed view of the face and hands! And so the half-hunter
was born.
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No matter who was in power in Europe, he wore a Breguet. The master, who
built the first watches with perpetual calendar and moonphase indication as early
as 1795, was not only a technical visionary, but a pioneer in the business world
as well. Aside from considering (and executing) special requests from royalty and
wealthy patrons, Breguet also cased his movements in gold and silver, created
lavish carrying cases of Morocco leather, provided spare parts, and was perhaps
the first watchmaker to encounter counterfeit examples of his work.
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To combat this problem, Breguet and engraver Jean Pierre Droz invented the
"secret signature" on the dial. An impossibly small marking, the signature could
be only be read by holding the watch to a light source and looking through a loupe.
To further ensure authenticity, all watches that left the factory were given a serial
number and registered in thick books, so that authenticity could always be verified.
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Unfortunately, Breguet was ultimately forced to seek refuge in Switzerland
beginning in 1807. Many timepieces from this time period that are signed "Breguet
et Fils" were actually built by other watchmakers and merely retailed by the Master.
As a result, many collectors consider the only "true" Breguets to be the
watches sold prior to Breguet's exile from France.
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Following Breguet's death, the company changed hands several times. The "modern"
chapter of the Breguet saga begins in 1970, five years prior to its 200th
anniversary, when the company was bought by Parisian jewelers Jacques and Pierre
Chaumet. By restoring the prestige and exclusivity associated with Breguet
watches, the Chaumet brothers accomplished a minor miracle.
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Modern Breguet watches, which are built by hand by the most talented Swiss
watchmakers, boast hand-engraved ("guilloche") silver dials, exquisitely finished
cases with reeded edges, and of course, the famous Breguet signature. Although
Breguet also offers such sporty, casual models as the "Transatlantique" and
"Marine" lines, they are best known for their elegant dress watches. While a Breguet
may not be in everyone's price range, collectors with the means to acquire one of
these mechanical masterpieces should not hesitate. The history, romance, high quality,
and exclusivity of this brand ensure that it will be a worthwhile investment indeed.
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Worldofluxuryus.com is proud to offer large selection of
Breguet watches including the
Classique
Collection,
Grande Complications,
Heritage Collection,
Marine Collection,
Reine De Naples Collection
and Type XX Collection models.
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